Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
A. Lange & Söhne · Lange 1
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 39 mm Green Stainless
Reference 85020ST.18
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- A. Lange & Söhne
- Collection
- Lange 1
- Model
- A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 39 mm Green Stainless
- Reference number
- 85020ST.18
- Year / era
- 1969 · 1960s — pre-quartz mechanical era
- Complication
- Minute repeater
- Movement
- In-house tourbillon, manual-winding
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Dial type
- Green sunburst
- Strap / bracelet
- NATO textile strap
- Water resistance
- 200 m
- Limited-edition status
- Regular production, not a limited edition
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 39 mm
- Case thickness
- 11.3 mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Bezel
- Octagonal with 8 hexagonal screws
- Crystal
- Sapphire with internal AR treatment
- Dial
- Green sunburst
- Hands
- Blued steel Breguet-style hands
- Indexes
- Diamond-set hour markers
- Bracelet / strap
- NATO textile strap
- Clasp / buckle
- Titanium deployant clasp
- Water resistance
- 200 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 12C — In-house tourbillon, manual-winding
- Movement type
- Manual-winding
- Frequency
- 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 65 hours
- Number of jewels
- 21 jewels
- Complications
- Minute repeater
- Functions
- Hours, minutes, seconds, date
- Watchmaker
- Assembled and regulated by a single watchmaker, who signs off the piece before casing.
Production & market
- Production period
- 1969 – 1972
- Limited-edition quantity
- Not applicable
- Current market information
- Trades close to retail on the secondary market, with steady demand for full-set examples.
Designer
Reinhard Meis & Günter Blümlein
The reference was drawn by the manufacture's internal design office, where case, dial and movement architects work alongside the watchmakers rather than as an outside commission.
Historical significance
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 39 mm Green Stainless sits within A. Lange & Söhne's Lange 1 line, introduced in 1969. It carries the house codes established since 1845 — stainless steel case, green sunburst dial and in-house tourbillon, manual-winding — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- The case is finished by hand, alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces in a single pass so the edges stay razor sharp.
- The reference was originally planned as a one-year run and stayed in the catalogue for well over a decade.
- The movement's bridges are decorated even where they will never be seen once the watch is cased.
The House
A. Lange & Söhne
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1845
- Founder
- Ferdinand Adolph Lange
- Headquarters
- Germany
- Tier
- Ultra-Luxury & Haute Horlogerie
- Major collections
- Lange 1, Saxonia, Odysseus, Datograph, Zeitwerk, 1815, Richard Lange
- Signature technologies
- Composite and ceramic case materials · In-house hairspring production
- Famous movements
- In-house tourbillon, manual-winding · In-house manual-winding, hand-finished · In-house automatic with 22k gold rotor · In-house automatic micro-rotor
- Notable watches
- A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 40 mm Slate Platinum (1978) · A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 39 mm Green Stainless (1969) · A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 44 mm Blue Quartz (1954) · A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 41 mm Silvered Quartz (1973)
Brand history
A. Lange & Söhne has spent more than 181 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's Lange 1, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Ferdinand Adolph Lange established A. Lange & Söhne in 1845, working from Germany at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every A. Lange & Söhne calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1845
Ferdinand Adolph Lange founds A. Lange & Söhne in Germany.
1885
A. Lange & Söhne earns its first international recognition for precision timekeeping.
1969
The quartz era forces A. Lange & Söhne to redefine mechanical watchmaking.
1990
A. Lange & Söhne enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.
2024
A. Lange & Söhne continues to produce Lange 1, Saxonia, Odysseus and other icons in limited numbers.