Baume & Mercier Linea 40 mm Salmon Platinum

Case, dial & bracelet

Case dimensions

40 mm

Case thickness

8.1 mm

Case material

Platinum 950

Bezel

Unidirectional ceramic 60-minute

Crystal

Sapphire with internal AR treatment

Dial

Salmon

Hands

Rhodium-plated baton hands with luminous fill

Indexes

Applied Roman numerals

Bracelet / strap

Jubilee bracelet

Clasp / buckle

Triple-folding clasp with safety catch

Water resistance

150 m

Movement

Movement / calibre

Calibre 86F — Automatic, Swiss lever escapement

Movement type

Manual-winding

Frequency

21,600 vph (3 Hz)

Power reserve

65 hours

Number of jewels

27 jewels

Complications

Time only

Functions

Chronograph, tachymeter, date

Watchmaker

Assembled and regulated by a single watchmaker, who signs off the piece before casing.

Production & market

Production period

1966 – 1974

Limited-edition quantity

Not applicable

Current market information

Consistently trades above retail; waiting lists at authorised dealers remain long.

Designer

Jörg Hysek

Jörg Hysek left Rolex and Seiko's European studios to build a design practice in Geneva, giving houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Seiko and TAG Heuer their sculptural, architecture-led cases before founding his own brand, HD3.

Historical significance

Baume & Mercier Linea 40 mm Salmon Platinum sits within Baume & Mercier's Linea line, introduced in 1966. It carries the house codes established since 1830 — platinum 950 case, salmon dial and automatic, swiss lever escapement — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.

Interesting facts

• The movement's bridges are decorated even where they will never be seen once the watch is cased.
• The bracelet tapers across its length, which is why the profile looks thinner on the wrist than the specification suggests.
• The case is finished by hand, alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces in a single pass so the edges stay razor sharp.