All Blancpain
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 44 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k
Front view

Front view

Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.

Case-back view

Case-back view

Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.

Movement

Movement

Calibre with its finishing and decoration.

On the wrist

On the wrist

Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.

Blancpain · Fifty Fathoms

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 44 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k

Reference 98908OR.31

Reference at a glance

Brand
Blancpain
Collection
Fifty Fathoms
Model
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 44 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k
Reference number
98908OR.31
Year / era
1954 · 1950s — pre-quartz mechanical era
Complication
Tourbillon
Movement
In-house manual-winding
Case material
18k white gold
Dial type
Mother-of-pearl
Strap / bracelet
Integrated steel bracelet
Water resistance
300 m
Limited-edition status
Regular production, not a limited edition
Compare this reference

Case, dial & bracelet

Case dimensions
44 mm
Case thickness
11.3 mm
Case material
18k white gold
Bezel
Unidirectional ceramic 60-minute
Crystal
Flat sapphire with Cyclops lens
Dial
Mother-of-pearl
Hands
Skeletonised sword hands, white luminescent
Indexes
Applied Roman numerals
Bracelet / strap
Integrated steel bracelet
Clasp / buckle
Titanium deployant clasp
Water resistance
300 m

Movement

Movement / calibre
Calibre 47E — In-house manual-winding
Movement type
High-frequency automatic
Frequency
25,200 vph (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve
10 days
Number of jewels
25 jewels
Complications
Tourbillon
Functions
GMT second time zone, date
Watchmaker
Assembled and regulated by a single watchmaker, who signs off the piece before casing.

Production & market

Production period
1954 – 1965
Limited-edition quantity
Not applicable
Current market information
Trades close to retail on the secondary market, with steady demand for full-set examples.

Designer

Jean-Jacques Fiechter

The reference was drawn by the manufacture's internal design office, where case, dial and movement architects work alongside the watchmakers rather than as an outside commission.

Historical significance

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 44 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k sits within Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms line, introduced in 1954. It carries the house codes established since 1735 — 18k white gold case, mother-of-pearl dial and in-house manual-winding — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.

Interesting facts

  • The bracelet tapers across its length, which is why the profile looks thinner on the wrist than the specification suggests.
  • The case is finished by hand, alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces in a single pass so the edges stay razor sharp.
  • The movement's bridges are decorated even where they will never be seen once the watch is cased.
BL

The House

Blancpain

Brand facts

Founding year
1735
Founder
Jehan-Jacques Blancpain
Headquarters
Switzerland
Tier
Luxury
Major collections
Fifty Fathoms, Villeret, Air Command, Bathyscaphe, Le Brassus, Ladybird
Signature technologies
Proprietary case-hardening and polishing · Certified chronometer regulation · Shock-absorbing movement mounting
Famous movements
In-house automatic, Superlative Chronometer · In-house manual-winding · In-house automatic, chronometer certified · In-house automatic chronograph
Notable watches
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 36 mm Slate Sapphire (1978) · Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 44 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k (1954) · Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 41 mm Skeletonised Quartz (2001) · Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 41 mm Black Stainless (1959)

Brand history

Blancpain has spent more than 291 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's Fifty Fathoms, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.

Jehan-Jacques Blancpain established Blancpain in 1735, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Blancpain calibre produced today.

Historical milestones

  1. 1735

    Jehan-Jacques Blancpain founds Blancpain in Switzerland.

  2. 1775

    Blancpain earns its first international recognition for precision timekeeping.

  3. 1969

    The quartz era forces Blancpain to redefine mechanical watchmaking.

  4. 1990

    Blancpain enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.

  5. 2024

    Blancpain continues to produce Fifty Fathoms, Villeret, Air Command and other icons in limited numbers.

More Fifty Fathoms