All Breitling
Breitling Premier 38 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k
Front view

Front view

Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.

Case-back view

Case-back view

Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.

Movement

Movement

Calibre with its finishing and decoration.

On the wrist

On the wrist

Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.

Breitling · Premier

Breitling Premier 38 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k

Reference 42553OR.19

Reference at a glance

Brand
Breitling
Collection
Premier
Model
Breitling Premier 38 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k
Reference number
42553OR.19
Year / era
1970 · 1970s — quartz-crisis era
Complication
Time only
Movement
High-beat automatic
Case material
18k yellow gold
Dial type
Mother-of-pearl
Strap / bracelet
Integrated steel bracelet
Water resistance
50 m
Limited-edition status
Regular production, not a limited edition
Compare this reference

Case, dial & bracelet

Case dimensions
38 mm
Case thickness
8.1 mm
Case material
18k yellow gold
Bezel
Baguette diamond rainbow
Crystal
Flat sapphire with Cyclops lens
Dial
Mother-of-pearl
Hands
Skeletonised sword hands, white luminescent
Indexes
Applied Roman numerals
Bracelet / strap
Integrated steel bracelet
Clasp / buckle
Pin buckle in matching case metal
Water resistance
50 m

Movement

Movement / calibre
Calibre 2B — High-beat automatic
Movement type
Automatic, self-winding
Frequency
36,000 vph (5 Hz)
Power reserve
5 days
Number of jewels
37 jewels
Complications
Time only
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Watchmaker
The calibre is built in-house and adjusted in five positions before delivery.

Production & market

Production period
1970 – 1986
Limited-edition quantity
Not applicable
Current market information
Values have stabilised after the 2022 correction; condition and box-and-papers drive the premium.

Designer

In-house design studio

The reference was drawn by the manufacture's internal design office, where case, dial and movement architects work alongside the watchmakers rather than as an outside commission.

Historical significance

Breitling Premier 38 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k sits within Breitling's Premier line, introduced in 1970. It carries the house codes established since 1884 — 18k yellow gold case, mother-of-pearl dial and high-beat automatic — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.

Interesting facts

  • The reference was originally planned as a one-year run and stayed in the catalogue for well over a decade.
  • The case is finished by hand, alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces in a single pass so the edges stay razor sharp.
BR

The House

Breitling

Brand facts

Founding year
1884
Founder
Léon Breitling
Headquarters
Switzerland
Tier
Premium
Major collections
Navitimer, Chronomat, Superocean, Avenger, Premier, Top Time
Signature technologies
Proprietary case-hardening and polishing · Composite and ceramic case materials · Hand-applied guilloché dials
Famous movements
Spring Drive · Automatic, Swiss lever escapement · High-beat automatic · Automatic chronograph
Notable watches
Breitling Navitimer 40 mm Ice Sapphire (2000) · Breitling Navitimer 44 mm Skeletonised Platinum (2003) · Breitling Navitimer 43 mm Black Platinum (1962) · Breitling Navitimer 43 mm Slate Platinum (1996)

Brand history

Breitling has spent more than 142 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's Navitimer, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.

Léon Breitling established Breitling in 1884, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Breitling calibre produced today.

Historical milestones

  1. 1884

    Léon Breitling founds Breitling in Switzerland.

  2. 1899

    Breitling earns its first international recognition for precision timekeeping.

  3. 1969

    The quartz era forces Breitling to redefine mechanical watchmaking.

  4. 1990

    Breitling enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.

  5. 2024

    Breitling continues to produce Navitimer, Chronomat, Superocean and other icons in limited numbers.

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