Doxa
Doxa Army 39 mm Salmon 18k
Photography on request
Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
Doxa · Army
Doxa Army 39 mm Salmon 18k
Reference 85009OR.63
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- Doxa
- Collection
- Army
- Model
- Doxa Army 39 mm Salmon 18k
- Reference number
- 85009OR.63
- Year / era
- 1960 · 1960s — pre-quartz mechanical era
- Complication
- Annual calendar
- Movement
- Automatic Powermatic 80
- Case material
- 18k white gold
- Dial type
- Salmon
- Strap / bracelet
- Jubilee bracelet
- Water resistance
- 500 m
- Limited-edition status
- Regular production, not a limited edition
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 39 mm
- Case thickness
- 8.1 mm
- Case material
- 18k white gold
- Bezel
- Bidirectional 24-hour Cerachrom
- Crystal
- Anti-reflective sapphire, double-domed
- Dial
- Salmon
- Hands
- Faceted dauphine hands, polished by hand
- Indexes
- Printed minute track with applied batons
- Bracelet / strap
- Jubilee bracelet
- Clasp / buckle
- Titanium deployant clasp
- Water resistance
- 500 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 33F — Automatic Powermatic 80
- Movement type
- Manual-winding
- Frequency
- 36,000 vph (5 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 70 hours
- Number of jewels
- 25 jewels
- Complications
- Annual calendar
- Functions
- GMT second time zone, date
- Watchmaker
- Assembled and regulated by a single watchmaker, who signs off the piece before casing.
Production & market
- Production period
- 1960 – 1972
- Limited-edition quantity
- Not applicable
- Current market information
- Trades close to retail on the secondary market, with steady demand for full-set examples.
Designer
Emmanuel Gueit
Emmanuel Gueit came from a family of Geneva jewellers and was barely into his twenties when he drew the oversized Royal Oak Offshore in 1993 — a watch the house's traditionalists resisted and collectors turned into an icon.
Historical significance
Doxa Army 39 mm Salmon 18k sits within Doxa's Army line, introduced in 1960. It carries the house codes established since 1889 — 18k white gold case, salmon dial and automatic powermatic 80 — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- Early production dials show a slightly different minute track, and collectors pay a premium for them.
- The case is finished by hand, alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces in a single pass so the edges stay razor sharp.
The House
Doxa
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1889
- Founder
- Georges Ducommun
- Headquarters
- Switzerland
- Tier
- Affordable & Tool Watches
- Major collections
- SUB 300, SUB 200, SUB 800, Army
- Signature technologies
- Anti-magnetic silicon escapement · Proprietary case-hardening and polishing · Certified chronometer regulation
- Famous movements
- Quartz · Automatic COSC chronometer · Automatic, 38-hour reserve · Automatic Powermatic 80
- Notable watches
- Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Blue Quartz (1987) · Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Meteorite 18k (1989) · Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Salmon Stainless (1986) · Doxa SUB 300 41 mm Green Sapphire (1966)
Brand history
Doxa has spent more than 137 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's SUB 300, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Georges Ducommun established Doxa in 1889, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Doxa calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1889
Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Switzerland.
1899
Doxa earns its first international recognition for precision timekeeping.
1969
The quartz era forces Doxa to redefine mechanical watchmaking.
1990
Doxa enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.
2024
Doxa continues to produce SUB 300, SUB 200, SUB 800 and other icons in limited numbers.