Doxa
Doxa SUB 800 39 mm Blue 18k
Photography on request
Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
Doxa · SUB 800
Doxa SUB 800 39 mm Blue 18k
Reference 45514OR.24
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- Doxa
- Collection
- SUB 800
- Model
- Doxa SUB 800 39 mm Blue 18k
- Reference number
- 45514OR.24
- Year / era
- 1994 · 1990s — mechanical revival
- Complication
- Chronograph
- Movement
- Automatic COSC chronometer
- Case material
- 18k rose gold
- Dial type
- Blue "Grande Tapisserie"
- Strap / bracelet
- Alligator leather with folding clasp
- Water resistance
- 100 m
- Limited-edition status
- Regular production, not a limited edition
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 39 mm
- Case thickness
- 12.6 mm
- Case material
- 18k rose gold
- Bezel
- Unidirectional ceramic 60-minute
- Crystal
- Box sapphire with AR coating
- Dial
- Blue "Grande Tapisserie"
- Hands
- Mercedes hour hand with Chromalight display
- Indexes
- Printed minute track with applied batons
- Bracelet / strap
- Alligator leather with folding clasp
- Clasp / buckle
- Folding clasp in matching case metal
- Water resistance
- 100 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 23B — Automatic COSC chronometer
- Movement type
- Automatic with micro-rotor
- Frequency
- 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 55 hours
- Number of jewels
- 27 jewels
- Complications
- Chronograph
- Functions
- Hours, minutes, small seconds
- Watchmaker
- The calibre is built in-house and adjusted in five positions before delivery.
Production & market
- Production period
- 1994 – 1998
- Limited-edition quantity
- Not applicable
- Current market information
- Consistently trades above retail; waiting lists at authorised dealers remain long.
Designer
Gérald Genta
Gérald Genta (1931–2011) trained as a goldsmith in Geneva and became the most influential watch designer of the 20th century. Working freelance, he sketched the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak overnight in 1970, followed by the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the IWC Ingenieur SL and the Bulgari Bulgari — defining the integrated-bracelet luxury sports watch as a category.
Historical significance
Doxa SUB 800 39 mm Blue 18k sits within Doxa's SUB 800 line, introduced in 1994. It carries the house codes established since 1889 — 18k rose gold case, blue "grande tapisserie" dial and automatic cosc chronometer — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- The bracelet tapers across its length, which is why the profile looks thinner on the wrist than the specification suggests.
- Early production dials show a slightly different minute track, and collectors pay a premium for them.
- The reference was originally planned as a one-year run and stayed in the catalogue for well over a decade.
The House
Doxa
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1889
- Founder
- Georges Ducommun
- Headquarters
- Switzerland
- Tier
- Affordable & Tool Watches
- Major collections
- SUB 300, SUB 200, SUB 800, Army
- Signature technologies
- Anti-magnetic silicon escapement · Proprietary case-hardening and polishing · Certified chronometer regulation
- Famous movements
- Quartz · Automatic COSC chronometer · Automatic, 38-hour reserve · Automatic Powermatic 80
- Notable watches
- Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Blue Quartz (1987) · Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Meteorite 18k (1989) · Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Salmon Stainless (1986) · Doxa SUB 300 41 mm Green Sapphire (1966)
Brand history
Doxa has spent more than 137 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's SUB 300, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Georges Ducommun established Doxa in 1889, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Doxa calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1889
Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Switzerland.
1899
Doxa earns its first international recognition for precision timekeeping.
1969
The quartz era forces Doxa to redefine mechanical watchmaking.
1990
Doxa enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.
2024
Doxa continues to produce SUB 300, SUB 200, SUB 800 and other icons in limited numbers.