Nomos Glashütte
Nomos Glashütte Metro 39 mm Black Platinum
Photography on request
Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
Nomos Glashütte · Metro
Nomos Glashütte Metro 39 mm Black Platinum
Reference 57212OR.80
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- Nomos Glashütte
- Collection
- Metro
- Model
- Nomos Glashütte Metro 39 mm Black Platinum
- Reference number
- 57212OR.80
- Year / era
- 1990 · 1990s — mechanical revival
- Complication
- Annual calendar
- Movement
- Automatic, Swiss lever escapement
- Case material
- Platinum 950
- Dial type
- Black lacquer
- Strap / bracelet
- White rubber velcro strap
- Water resistance
- 500 m
- Limited-edition status
- Regular production, not a limited edition
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 39 mm
- Case thickness
- 9.4 mm
- Case material
- Platinum 950
- Bezel
- Octagonal with 8 hexagonal screws
- Crystal
- Box sapphire with AR coating
- Dial
- Black lacquer
- Hands
- Rhodium-plated baton hands with luminous fill
- Indexes
- Applied faceted white-gold indexes
- Bracelet / strap
- White rubber velcro strap
- Clasp / buckle
- Triple-folding clasp with safety catch
- Water resistance
- 500 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 74C — Automatic, Swiss lever escapement
- Movement type
- Manual-winding
- Frequency
- 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 65 hours
- Number of jewels
- 21 jewels
- Complications
- Annual calendar
- Functions
- Annual calendar, moon phase
- Watchmaker
- Finishing, assembly and timing are carried out in the manufacture's own atelier.
Production & market
- Production period
- 1990 – 1993
- Limited-edition quantity
- Not applicable
- Current market information
- Trades close to retail on the secondary market, with steady demand for full-set examples.
Designer
Gérald Genta
Gérald Genta (1931–2011) trained as a goldsmith in Geneva and became the most influential watch designer of the 20th century. Working freelance, he sketched the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak overnight in 1970, followed by the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the IWC Ingenieur SL and the Bulgari Bulgari — defining the integrated-bracelet luxury sports watch as a category.
Historical significance
Nomos Glashütte Metro 39 mm Black Platinum sits within Nomos Glashütte's Metro line, introduced in 1990. It carries the house codes established since 1990 — platinum 950 case, black lacquer dial and automatic, swiss lever escapement — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- The movement's bridges are decorated even where they will never be seen once the watch is cased.
- The reference was originally planned as a one-year run and stayed in the catalogue for well over a decade.
The House
Nomos Glashütte
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1990
- Founder
- Roland Schwertner
- Headquarters
- Germany
- Tier
- Premium
- Major collections
- Tangente, Metro, Club, Ludwig, Autobahn, Orion
- Signature technologies
- Shock-absorbing movement mounting · In-house hairspring production · Anti-magnetic silicon escapement
- Famous movements
- Automatic, Swiss lever escapement · Automatic chronograph · High-beat automatic · Spring Drive
- Notable watches
- Nomos Glashütte Tangente 38 mm Blue Carbon (1990) · Nomos Glashütte Tangente 41 mm Salmon Ceramic (1990) · Nomos Glashütte Tangente 42 mm Black Grade (1990) · Nomos Glashütte Metro 41 mm Silvered 18k (1990)
Brand history
Nomos Glashütte has spent more than 36 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's Tangente, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Roland Schwertner established Nomos Glashütte in 1990, working from Germany at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Nomos Glashütte calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1990
Roland Schwertner founds Nomos Glashütte in Germany.
1990
Nomos Glashütte enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.
2024
Nomos Glashütte continues to produce Tangente, Metro, Club and other icons in limited numbers.