Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
Oris · ProPilot
Oris ProPilot 37 mm Mother-of-pearl Sapphire
Reference 87861OR.16
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- Oris
- Collection
- ProPilot
- Model
- Oris ProPilot 37 mm Mother-of-pearl Sapphire
- Reference number
- 87861OR.16
- Year / era
- 1995 · 1990s — mechanical revival
- Complication
- Chronograph
- Movement
- Spring Drive
- Case material
- Sapphire crystal case
- Dial type
- Mother-of-pearl
- Strap / bracelet
- Milanese mesh
- Water resistance
- 50 m
- Limited-edition status
- Regular production, not a limited edition
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 37 mm
- Case thickness
- 14.1 mm
- Case material
- Sapphire crystal case
- Bezel
- Emerald-set
- Crystal
- Anti-reflective sapphire, double-domed
- Dial
- Mother-of-pearl
- Hands
- Mercedes hour hand with Chromalight display
- Indexes
- Printed minute track with applied batons
- Bracelet / strap
- Milanese mesh
- Clasp / buckle
- Titanium deployant clasp
- Water resistance
- 50 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 5F — Spring Drive
- Movement type
- Manual-winding
- Frequency
- 36,000 vph (5 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 45 hours
- Number of jewels
- 45 jewels
- Complications
- Chronograph
- Functions
- Flying tourbillon, power reserve
- Watchmaker
- The calibre is built in-house and adjusted in five positions before delivery.
Production & market
- Production period
- 1995 – 2001
- Limited-edition quantity
- Not applicable
- Current market information
- Thin secondary-market supply — pricing is set piece by piece at auction.
Designer
Gérald Genta
Gérald Genta (1931–2011) trained as a goldsmith in Geneva and became the most influential watch designer of the 20th century. Working freelance, he sketched the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak overnight in 1970, followed by the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the IWC Ingenieur SL and the Bulgari Bulgari — defining the integrated-bracelet luxury sports watch as a category.
Historical significance
Oris ProPilot 37 mm Mother-of-pearl Sapphire sits within Oris's ProPilot line, introduced in 1995. It carries the house codes established since 1904 — sapphire crystal case case, mother-of-pearl dial and spring drive — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- The reference was originally planned as a one-year run and stayed in the catalogue for well over a decade.
- The case is finished by hand, alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces in a single pass so the edges stay razor sharp.
- The movement's bridges are decorated even where they will never be seen once the watch is cased.
The House
Oris
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1904
- Founder
- Paul Cattin & Georges Christian
- Headquarters
- Switzerland
- Tier
- Premium
- Major collections
- Aquis, Big Crown, Divers Sixty-Five, ProPilot, Artelier
- Signature technologies
- Anti-magnetic silicon escapement · Composite and ceramic case materials · Hand-applied guilloché dials
- Famous movements
- Automatic, Swiss lever escapement · High-beat automatic · Automatic chronograph · Spring Drive
- Notable watches
- Oris Aquis 40 mm Mother-of-pearl Ceramic (1986) · Oris Aquis 38 mm Skeletonised Ceramic (1956) · Oris Aquis 39 mm Blue 18k (1951) · Oris Aquis 43 mm Skeletonised 18k (1985)
Brand history
Oris has spent more than 122 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's Aquis, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Paul Cattin & Georges Christian established Oris in 1904, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Oris calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1904
Paul Cattin & Georges Christian founds Oris in Switzerland.
1969
The quartz era forces Oris to redefine mechanical watchmaking.
1990
Oris enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.
2024
Oris continues to produce Aquis, Big Crown, Divers Sixty-Five and other icons in limited numbers.