Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
Panerai · Quaranta
Panerai Quaranta 38 mm Blue 18k
Reference 86392OR.14
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- Panerai
- Collection
- Quaranta
- Model
- Panerai Quaranta 38 mm Blue 18k
- Reference number
- 86392OR.14
- Year / era
- 2002 · 2000s — modern production
- Complication
- Perpetual calendar
- Movement
- In-house automatic, Superlative Chronometer
- Case material
- 18k yellow gold
- Dial type
- Blue "Grande Tapisserie"
- Strap / bracelet
- Integrated steel bracelet
- Water resistance
- 300 m
- Limited-edition status
- Regular production, not a limited edition
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 38 mm
- Case thickness
- 14.1 mm
- Case material
- 18k yellow gold
- Bezel
- Emerald-set
- Crystal
- Sapphire with internal AR treatment
- Dial
- Blue "Grande Tapisserie"
- Hands
- Blued steel Breguet-style hands
- Indexes
- Diamond-set hour markers
- Bracelet / strap
- Integrated steel bracelet
- Clasp / buckle
- Folding clasp in matching case metal
- Water resistance
- 300 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 5A — In-house automatic, Superlative Chronometer
- Movement type
- Automatic, self-winding
- Frequency
- 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 55 hours
- Number of jewels
- 27 jewels
- Complications
- Perpetual calendar
- Functions
- Flying tourbillon, power reserve
- Watchmaker
- The calibre is built in-house and adjusted in five positions before delivery.
Production & market
- Production period
- 2002 – 2009
- Limited-edition quantity
- Not applicable
- Current market information
- Consistently trades above retail; waiting lists at authorised dealers remain long.
Designer
Jörg Hysek
Jörg Hysek left Rolex and Seiko's European studios to build a design practice in Geneva, giving houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Seiko and TAG Heuer their sculptural, architecture-led cases before founding his own brand, HD3.
Historical significance
Panerai Quaranta 38 mm Blue 18k sits within Panerai's Quaranta line, introduced in 2002. It carries the house codes established since 1860 — 18k yellow gold case, blue "grande tapisserie" dial and in-house automatic, superlative chronometer — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- The bracelet tapers across its length, which is why the profile looks thinner on the wrist than the specification suggests.
- The reference was originally planned as a one-year run and stayed in the catalogue for well over a decade.
- The movement's bridges are decorated even where they will never be seen once the watch is cased.
The House
Panerai
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1860
- Founder
- Giovanni Panerai
- Headquarters
- Italy
- Tier
- Luxury
- Major collections
- Luminor, Radiomir, Submersible, Luminor Due, Quaranta
- Signature technologies
- Hand-applied guilloché dials · Proprietary case-hardening and polishing · In-house hairspring production
- Famous movements
- In-house manual-winding · In-house automatic, chronometer certified · In-house automatic, Superlative Chronometer · In-house automatic chronograph
- Notable watches
- Panerai Luminor 39 mm Black Stainless (1968) · Panerai Luminor 44 mm Salmon Ceramic (1955) · Panerai Radiomir 40 mm Skeletonised Quartz (1963) · Panerai Radiomir 44 mm Green Carbon (1995)
Brand history
Panerai has spent more than 166 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's Luminor, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Giovanni Panerai established Panerai in 1860, working from Italy at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Panerai calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1860
Giovanni Panerai founds Panerai in Italy.
1899
Panerai earns its first international recognition for precision timekeeping.
1969
The quartz era forces Panerai to redefine mechanical watchmaking.
1990
Panerai enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.
2024
Panerai continues to produce Luminor, Radiomir, Submersible and other icons in limited numbers.