Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
Parmigiani Fleurier · Tonda GT
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT 36 mm Salmon 18k
Reference 53173OR.53
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- Parmigiani Fleurier
- Collection
- Tonda GT
- Model
- Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT 36 mm Salmon 18k
- Reference number
- 53173OR.53
- Year / era
- 1996 · 1990s — mechanical revival
- Complication
- GMT / second time zone
- Movement
- In-house automatic, Superlative Chronometer
- Case material
- 18k yellow gold
- Dial type
- Salmon
- Strap / bracelet
- Oyster bracelet
- Water resistance
- 200 m
- Limited-edition status
- Regular production, not a limited edition
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 36 mm
- Case thickness
- 14.1 mm
- Case material
- 18k yellow gold
- Bezel
- Fluted 18k gold
- Crystal
- Flat sapphire with Cyclops lens
- Dial
- Salmon
- Hands
- Faceted dauphine hands, polished by hand
- Indexes
- Printed minute track with applied batons
- Bracelet / strap
- Oyster bracelet
- Clasp / buckle
- Titanium deployant clasp
- Water resistance
- 200 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 49F — In-house automatic, Superlative Chronometer
- Movement type
- Manual-winding
- Frequency
- 36,000 vph (5 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 72 hours
- Number of jewels
- 25 jewels
- Complications
- GMT / second time zone
- Functions
- Perpetual calendar, leap year
- Watchmaker
- Finishing, assembly and timing are carried out in the manufacture's own atelier.
Production & market
- Production period
- 1996 – 2000
- Limited-edition quantity
- Not applicable
- Current market information
- Trades close to retail on the secondary market, with steady demand for full-set examples.
Designer
Marc Newson
Marc Newson is an Australian industrial designer whose work spans Qantas cabins, Apple hardware and Jaeger-LeCoultre's Atmos clocks; his watch design reduces the object to pure geometry and legibility.
Historical significance
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT 36 mm Salmon 18k sits within Parmigiani Fleurier's Tonda GT line, introduced in 1996. It carries the house codes established since 1996 — 18k yellow gold case, salmon dial and in-house automatic, superlative chronometer — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- Early production dials show a slightly different minute track, and collectors pay a premium for them.
- The bracelet tapers across its length, which is why the profile looks thinner on the wrist than the specification suggests.
The House
Parmigiani Fleurier
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1996
- Founder
- Michel Parmigiani
- Headquarters
- Switzerland
- Tier
- Luxury
- Major collections
- Tonda PF, Toric, Kalpa, Tonda GT, Tonda Metrographe
- Signature technologies
- Proprietary case-hardening and polishing · Shock-absorbing movement mounting
- Famous movements
- In-house manual-winding · In-house automatic, Superlative Chronometer · In-house automatic, chronometer certified · In-house automatic chronograph
- Notable watches
- Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 42 mm Skeletonised Ceramic (1996) · Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 38 mm Mother-of-pearl Ceramic (2000) · Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 43 mm Meteorite Sapphire (1996) · Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 38 mm Black Stainless (1996)
Brand history
Parmigiani Fleurier has spent more than 30 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's Tonda PF, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Michel Parmigiani established Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Parmigiani Fleurier calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1996
Michel Parmigiani founds Parmigiani Fleurier in Switzerland.
2024
Parmigiani Fleurier continues to produce Tonda PF, Toric, Kalpa and other icons in limited numbers.
More Tonda GT
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT 40 mm Silvered Stainless
Ref. 12399ST.69
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT 39 mm Green Grade
Ref. 82525OR.87
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT 36 mm Skeletonised Platinum
Ref. 34880OR.80
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT 42 mm Salmon 18k
Ref. 22914OR.52
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT 37 mm Green Sapphire
Ref. 58883OR.50