Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
Roger Dubuis · Excalibur Spider
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider 38 mm Slate Sapphire
Reference 56550OR.39
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- Roger Dubuis
- Collection
- Excalibur Spider
- Model
- Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider 38 mm Slate Sapphire
- Reference number
- 56550OR.39
- Year / era
- 1995 · 1990s — mechanical revival
- Complication
- Annual calendar
- Movement
- In-house automatic micro-rotor
- Case material
- Sapphire crystal case
- Dial type
- Slate grey
- Strap / bracelet
- Milanese mesh
- Water resistance
- 300 m
- Limited-edition status
- Limited edition of 250 pieces
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 38 mm
- Case thickness
- 10.2 mm
- Case material
- Sapphire crystal case
- Bezel
- Fluted 18k gold
- Crystal
- Box sapphire with AR coating
- Dial
- Slate grey
- Hands
- Rhodium-plated baton hands with luminous fill
- Indexes
- Applied faceted white-gold indexes
- Bracelet / strap
- Milanese mesh
- Clasp / buckle
- Folding clasp in matching case metal
- Water resistance
- 300 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 3C — In-house automatic micro-rotor
- Movement type
- Automatic with micro-rotor
- Frequency
- 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 72 hours
- Number of jewels
- 25 jewels
- Complications
- Annual calendar
- Functions
- Chronograph, tachymeter, date
- Watchmaker
- Assembled and regulated by a single watchmaker, who signs off the piece before casing.
Production & market
- Production period
- 1995 – 2004
- Limited-edition quantity
- 250 pieces
- Current market information
- Trades close to retail on the secondary market, with steady demand for full-set examples.
Designer
Jörg Hysek
Jörg Hysek left Rolex and Seiko's European studios to build a design practice in Geneva, giving houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Seiko and TAG Heuer their sculptural, architecture-led cases before founding his own brand, HD3.
Historical significance
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider 38 mm Slate Sapphire sits within Roger Dubuis's Excalibur Spider line, introduced in 1995. It carries the house codes established since 1995 — sapphire crystal case case, slate grey dial and in-house automatic micro-rotor — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- Early production dials show a slightly different minute track, and collectors pay a premium for them.
- The case is finished by hand, alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces in a single pass so the edges stay razor sharp.
- The bracelet tapers across its length, which is why the profile looks thinner on the wrist than the specification suggests.
The House
Roger Dubuis
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1995
- Founder
- Roger Dubuis & Carlos Dias
- Headquarters
- Switzerland
- Tier
- Ultra-Luxury & Haute Horlogerie
- Major collections
- Excalibur, Excalibur Spider, Velvet, Monovortex, Knights of the Round Table
- Signature technologies
- Hand-applied guilloché dials · In-house hairspring production · Composite and ceramic case materials
- Famous movements
- In-house tourbillon, manual-winding · In-house automatic micro-rotor · In-house automatic with 22k gold rotor · In-house manual-winding, hand-finished
- Notable watches
- Roger Dubuis Excalibur 40 mm Black 18k (1995) · Roger Dubuis Excalibur 43 mm Silvered Sapphire (1995) · Roger Dubuis Excalibur 39 mm Silvered Sapphire (1995) · Roger Dubuis Excalibur 38 mm Blue 18k (1995)
Brand history
Roger Dubuis has spent more than 31 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's Excalibur, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Roger Dubuis & Carlos Dias established Roger Dubuis in 1995, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Roger Dubuis calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1995
Roger Dubuis & Carlos Dias founds Roger Dubuis in Switzerland.
2024
Roger Dubuis continues to produce Excalibur, Excalibur Spider, Velvet and other icons in limited numbers.
More Excalibur Spider
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider 42 mm Green Carbon
Ref. 87507OR.84
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider 44 mm Skeletonised Quartz
Ref. 22372OR.63
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider 41 mm Silvered Grade
Ref. 54497OR.91
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider 42 mm Slate Sapphire
Ref. 31450OR.90
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider 40 mm Silvered 18k
Ref. 19415OR.13