All Zenith
Zenith Elite 39 mm Silvered 18k
Front view

Front view

Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.

Case-back view

Case-back view

Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.

Movement

Movement

Calibre with its finishing and decoration.

On the wrist

On the wrist

Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.

Zenith · Elite

Zenith Elite 39 mm Silvered 18k

Reference 52867OR.79

Reference at a glance

Brand
Zenith
Collection
Elite
Model
Zenith Elite 39 mm Silvered 18k
Reference number
52867OR.79
Year / era
1988 · 1980s — mechanical revival
Complication
Perpetual calendar
Movement
In-house automatic chronograph
Case material
18k white gold
Dial type
Silvered opaline
Strap / bracelet
Jubilee bracelet
Water resistance
200 m
Limited-edition status
Regular production, not a limited edition
Compare this reference

Case, dial & bracelet

Case dimensions
39 mm
Case thickness
8.8 mm
Case material
18k white gold
Bezel
Smooth polished
Crystal
Box sapphire with AR coating
Dial
Silvered opaline
Hands
Blued steel Breguet-style hands
Indexes
Diamond-set hour markers
Bracelet / strap
Jubilee bracelet
Clasp / buckle
Triple-folding clasp with safety catch
Water resistance
200 m

Movement

Movement / calibre
Calibre 86D — In-house automatic chronograph
Movement type
Manual-winding
Frequency
36,000 vph (5 Hz)
Power reserve
70 hours
Number of jewels
45 jewels
Complications
Perpetual calendar
Functions
Chronograph, tachymeter, date
Watchmaker
Assembled and regulated by a single watchmaker, who signs off the piece before casing.

Production & market

Production period
1988 – 1992
Limited-edition quantity
Not applicable
Current market information
Thin secondary-market supply — pricing is set piece by piece at auction.

Designer

Emmanuel Gueit

Emmanuel Gueit came from a family of Geneva jewellers and was barely into his twenties when he drew the oversized Royal Oak Offshore in 1993 — a watch the house's traditionalists resisted and collectors turned into an icon.

Historical significance

Zenith Elite 39 mm Silvered 18k sits within Zenith's Elite line, introduced in 1988. It carries the house codes established since 1865 — 18k white gold case, silvered opaline dial and in-house automatic chronograph — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.

Interesting facts

  • The case is finished by hand, alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces in a single pass so the edges stay razor sharp.
  • Early production dials show a slightly different minute track, and collectors pay a premium for them.
  • The bracelet tapers across its length, which is why the profile looks thinner on the wrist than the specification suggests.
ZE

The House

Zenith

Brand facts

Founding year
1865
Founder
Georges Favre-Jacot
Headquarters
Switzerland
Tier
Luxury
Major collections
El Primero, Chronomaster, Defy, Pilot, Elite
Signature technologies
Proprietary case-hardening and polishing · In-house hairspring production · Certified chronometer regulation
Famous movements
In-house automatic, Superlative Chronometer · In-house automatic, chronometer certified · In-house manual-winding · In-house automatic chronograph
Notable watches
Zenith El Primero 42 mm Slate Platinum (1954) · Zenith El Primero 42 mm Mother-of-pearl Ceramic (1965) · Zenith El Primero 41 mm Skeletonised Sapphire (1975) · Zenith El Primero 40 mm Silvered 18k (1995)

Brand history

Zenith has spent more than 161 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's El Primero, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.

Georges Favre-Jacot established Zenith in 1865, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Zenith calibre produced today.

Historical milestones

  1. 1865

    Georges Favre-Jacot founds Zenith in Switzerland.

  2. 1899

    Zenith earns its first international recognition for precision timekeeping.

  3. 1969

    The quartz era forces Zenith to redefine mechanical watchmaking.

  4. 1990

    Zenith enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.

  5. 2024

    Zenith continues to produce El Primero, Chronomaster, Defy and other icons in limited numbers.

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