Patek Philippe Calatrava 4997/200R Ultra Thin Rose Gold Diamond Bezel 35mm Purple Dial Ladies Watch

Reference at a glance

Brand

Patek Philippe

Collection

Calatrava

Model

Patek Philippe Calatrava 4997/200R Ultra Thin Rose Gold Diamond Bezel 35mm Purple Dial Ladies Watch

Reference number

4997-200R

Year / era

1998 · 1990s — mechanical revival

Complication

Time only

Movement

Automatic manufacture calibre

Case material

18k rose gold

Dial type

Silvered opaline dial

Strap / bracelet

Integrated metal bracelet

Water resistance

Water resistant to 100 m

Limited-edition status

Regular production, not a limited edition

Case, dial & bracelet

Case dimensions

35 mm diameter

Case thickness

9.4 mm

Case material

18k rose gold

Bezel

Fixed polished bezel

Crystal

Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

Dial

Silvered opaline dial

Hands

Mercedes hour hand with Chromalight display

Indexes

Printed minute track with applied batons

Bracelet / strap

Integrated metal bracelet

Clasp / buckle

Titanium deployant clasp

Water resistance

Water resistant to 100 m

Movement

Movement / calibre

Calibre 72A — Automatic manufacture calibre

Movement type

Manual-winding

Frequency

36,000 vph (5 Hz)

Power reserve

60 hours

Number of jewels

37 jewels

Complications

Time only

Functions

Chronograph, hours, minutes, date

Watchmaker

The calibre is built in-house and adjusted in five positions before delivery.

Production & market

Production period

1998 – 2005

Limited-edition quantity

Not applicable

Current market information

Values have stabilised after the 2022 correction; condition and box-and-papers drive the premium.

Designer

In-house design studio

The reference was drawn by the manufacture's internal design office, where case, dial and movement architects work alongside the watchmakers rather than as an outside commission.

Historical significance

Patek Philippe Calatrava 4997/200R Ultra Thin Rose Gold Diamond Bezel 35mm Purple Dial Ladies Watch sits within Patek Philippe's Calatrava line, introduced in 1998. It carries the house codes established since 1839 — 18k rose gold case, silvered opaline dial dial and automatic manufacture calibre — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.

Interesting facts

• The movement's bridges are decorated even where they will never be seen once the watch is cased.
• Early production dials show a slightly different minute track, and collectors pay a premium for them.
• The reference was originally planned as a one-year run and stayed in the catalogue for well over a decade.