Doxa
Doxa SUB 200 38 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k
Photography on request
Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
Doxa · SUB 200
Doxa SUB 200 38 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k
Reference 60632OR.24
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- Doxa
- Collection
- SUB 200
- Model
- Doxa SUB 200 38 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k
- Reference number
- 60632OR.24
- Year / era
- 1982 · 1980s — quartz-crisis era
- Complication
- Minute repeater
- Movement
- Automatic Powermatic 80
- Case material
- 18k white gold
- Dial type
- Mother-of-pearl
- Strap / bracelet
- Alligator leather with folding clasp
- Water resistance
- 50 m
- Limited-edition status
- Regular production, not a limited edition
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 38 mm
- Case thickness
- 8.1 mm
- Case material
- 18k white gold
- Bezel
- Unidirectional ceramic 60-minute
- Crystal
- Flat sapphire with Cyclops lens
- Dial
- Mother-of-pearl
- Hands
- Blued steel Breguet-style hands
- Indexes
- Diamond-set hour markers
- Bracelet / strap
- Alligator leather with folding clasp
- Clasp / buckle
- Pin buckle in matching case metal
- Water resistance
- 50 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 32E — Automatic Powermatic 80
- Movement type
- Automatic, self-winding
- Frequency
- 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 55 hours
- Number of jewels
- 33 jewels
- Complications
- Minute repeater
- Functions
- Annual calendar, moon phase
- Watchmaker
- The calibre is built in-house and adjusted in five positions before delivery.
Production & market
- Production period
- 1982 – 1991
- Limited-edition quantity
- Not applicable
- Current market information
- Values have stabilised after the 2022 correction; condition and box-and-papers drive the premium.
Designer
Emmanuel Gueit
Emmanuel Gueit came from a family of Geneva jewellers and was barely into his twenties when he drew the oversized Royal Oak Offshore in 1993 — a watch the house's traditionalists resisted and collectors turned into an icon.
Historical significance
Doxa SUB 200 38 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k sits within Doxa's SUB 200 line, introduced in 1982. It carries the house codes established since 1889 — 18k white gold case, mother-of-pearl dial and automatic powermatic 80 — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- The case is finished by hand, alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces in a single pass so the edges stay razor sharp.
- The movement's bridges are decorated even where they will never be seen once the watch is cased.
- Early production dials show a slightly different minute track, and collectors pay a premium for them.
The House
Doxa
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1889
- Founder
- Georges Ducommun
- Headquarters
- Switzerland
- Tier
- Affordable & Tool Watches
- Major collections
- SUB 300, SUB 200, SUB 800, Army
- Signature technologies
- Anti-magnetic silicon escapement · Proprietary case-hardening and polishing · Certified chronometer regulation
- Famous movements
- Quartz · Automatic COSC chronometer · Automatic, 38-hour reserve · Automatic Powermatic 80
- Notable watches
- Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Blue Quartz (1987) · Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Meteorite 18k (1989) · Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Salmon Stainless (1986) · Doxa SUB 300 41 mm Green Sapphire (1966)
Brand history
Doxa has spent more than 137 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's SUB 300, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Georges Ducommun established Doxa in 1889, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Doxa calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1889
Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Switzerland.
1899
Doxa earns its first international recognition for precision timekeeping.
1969
The quartz era forces Doxa to redefine mechanical watchmaking.
1990
Doxa enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.
2024
Doxa continues to produce SUB 300, SUB 200, SUB 800 and other icons in limited numbers.