Doxa
Doxa SUB 200 40 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k
Photography on request
Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
Doxa · SUB 200
Doxa SUB 200 40 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k
Reference 99299OR.56
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- Doxa
- Collection
- SUB 200
- Model
- Doxa SUB 200 40 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k
- Reference number
- 99299OR.56
- Year / era
- 1965 · 1960s — pre-quartz mechanical era
- Complication
- Tourbillon
- Movement
- Automatic Powermatic 80
- Case material
- 18k white gold
- Dial type
- Mother-of-pearl
- Strap / bracelet
- NATO textile strap
- Water resistance
- 100 m
- Limited-edition status
- Regular production, not a limited edition
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 40 mm
- Case thickness
- 8.1 mm
- Case material
- 18k white gold
- Bezel
- Smooth polished
- Crystal
- Flat sapphire with Cyclops lens
- Dial
- Mother-of-pearl
- Hands
- Blued steel Breguet-style hands
- Indexes
- Diamond-set hour markers
- Bracelet / strap
- NATO textile strap
- Clasp / buckle
- Triple-folding clasp with safety catch
- Water resistance
- 100 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 54D — Automatic Powermatic 80
- Movement type
- Manual-winding
- Frequency
- 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 38 hours
- Number of jewels
- 33 jewels
- Complications
- Tourbillon
- Functions
- Flying tourbillon, power reserve
- Watchmaker
- Assembled and regulated by a single watchmaker, who signs off the piece before casing.
Production & market
- Production period
- 1965 – 1981
- Limited-edition quantity
- Not applicable
- Current market information
- Values have stabilised after the 2022 correction; condition and box-and-papers drive the premium.
Designer
Jörg Hysek
Jörg Hysek left Rolex and Seiko's European studios to build a design practice in Geneva, giving houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Seiko and TAG Heuer their sculptural, architecture-led cases before founding his own brand, HD3.
Historical significance
Doxa SUB 200 40 mm Mother-of-pearl 18k sits within Doxa's SUB 200 line, introduced in 1965. It carries the house codes established since 1889 — 18k white gold case, mother-of-pearl dial and automatic powermatic 80 — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- Early production dials show a slightly different minute track, and collectors pay a premium for them.
- The reference was originally planned as a one-year run and stayed in the catalogue for well over a decade.
The House
Doxa
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1889
- Founder
- Georges Ducommun
- Headquarters
- Switzerland
- Tier
- Affordable & Tool Watches
- Major collections
- SUB 300, SUB 200, SUB 800, Army
- Signature technologies
- Anti-magnetic silicon escapement · Proprietary case-hardening and polishing · Certified chronometer regulation
- Famous movements
- Quartz · Automatic COSC chronometer · Automatic, 38-hour reserve · Automatic Powermatic 80
- Notable watches
- Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Blue Quartz (1987) · Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Meteorite 18k (1989) · Doxa SUB 300 42 mm Salmon Stainless (1986) · Doxa SUB 300 41 mm Green Sapphire (1966)
Brand history
Doxa has spent more than 137 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's SUB 300, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Georges Ducommun established Doxa in 1889, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every Doxa calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1889
Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Switzerland.
1899
Doxa earns its first international recognition for precision timekeeping.
1969
The quartz era forces Doxa to redefine mechanical watchmaking.
1990
Doxa enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.
2024
Doxa continues to produce SUB 300, SUB 200, SUB 800 and other icons in limited numbers.