Front view
Dial, hands and bezel as delivered.
Case-back view
Case-back engraving and, where fitted, the sapphire display.
Movement
Calibre with its finishing and decoration.
On the wrist
Worn shot for proportion and strap drape.
TAG Heuer · Aquaracer
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 36 mm Blue 18k
Reference 20725OR.50
Reference at a glance
- Brand
- TAG Heuer
- Collection
- Aquaracer
- Model
- TAG Heuer Aquaracer 36 mm Blue 18k
- Reference number
- 20725OR.50
- Year / era
- 1986 · 1980s — mechanical revival
- Complication
- Tourbillon
- Movement
- Spring Drive
- Case material
- 18k white gold
- Dial type
- Blue "Grande Tapisserie"
- Strap / bracelet
- Oyster bracelet
- Water resistance
- 100 m
- Limited-edition status
- Regular production, not a limited edition
Case, dial & bracelet
- Case dimensions
- 36 mm
- Case thickness
- 8.1 mm
- Case material
- 18k white gold
- Bezel
- Emerald-set
- Crystal
- Box sapphire with AR coating
- Dial
- Blue "Grande Tapisserie"
- Hands
- Rhodium-plated baton hands with luminous fill
- Indexes
- Applied faceted white-gold indexes
- Bracelet / strap
- Oyster bracelet
- Clasp / buckle
- Titanium deployant clasp
- Water resistance
- 100 m
Movement
- Movement / calibre
- Calibre 81E — Spring Drive
- Movement type
- Manual-winding
- Frequency
- 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Power reserve
- 45 hours
- Number of jewels
- 33 jewels
- Complications
- Tourbillon
- Functions
- Hours, minutes, seconds, date
- Watchmaker
- Finishing, assembly and timing are carried out in the manufacture's own atelier.
Production & market
- Production period
- 1986 – 1989
- Limited-edition quantity
- Not applicable
- Current market information
- Values have stabilised after the 2022 correction; condition and box-and-papers drive the premium.
Designer
Jörg Hysek
Jörg Hysek left Rolex and Seiko's European studios to build a design practice in Geneva, giving houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Seiko and TAG Heuer their sculptural, architecture-led cases before founding his own brand, HD3.
Historical significance
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 36 mm Blue 18k sits within TAG Heuer's Aquaracer line, introduced in 1986. It carries the house codes established since 1860 — 18k white gold case, blue "grande tapisserie" dial and spring drive — and is one of the references collectors use to date the evolution of the collection.
Interesting facts
- Early production dials show a slightly different minute track, and collectors pay a premium for them.
- The case is finished by hand, alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces in a single pass so the edges stay razor sharp.
The House
TAG Heuer
Brand facts
- Founding year
- 1860
- Founder
- Edouard Heuer
- Headquarters
- Switzerland
- Tier
- Premium
- Major collections
- Carrera, Monaco, Aquaracer, Formula 1, Autavia, Connected
- Signature technologies
- Hand-applied guilloché dials · Proprietary case-hardening and polishing · Certified chronometer regulation
- Famous movements
- High-beat automatic · Automatic, Swiss lever escapement · Automatic chronograph · Spring Drive
- Notable watches
- TAG Heuer Carrera 40 mm Salmon 18k (1998) · TAG Heuer Carrera 39 mm Green Stainless (1984) · TAG Heuer Carrera 40 mm Skeletonised Grade (2001) · TAG Heuer Carrera 37 mm Green Quartz (1984)
Brand history
TAG Heuer has spent more than 166 years refining a single idea: a watch should outlive its owner. From the earliest workshop pieces to today's Carrera, the house has balanced technical ambition with a recognisable design language, and its collections remain among the most closely followed by collectors worldwide.
Edouard Heuer established TAG Heuer in 1860, working from Switzerland at a time when precision was measured by hand. The founder's obsession with finishing and accuracy still defines every TAG Heuer calibre produced today.
Historical milestones
1860
Edouard Heuer founds TAG Heuer in Switzerland.
1899
TAG Heuer earns its first international recognition for precision timekeeping.
1969
The quartz era forces TAG Heuer to redefine mechanical watchmaking.
1990
TAG Heuer enters the modern collector market with its signature lines.
2024
TAG Heuer continues to produce Carrera, Monaco, Aquaracer and other icons in limited numbers.